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Plug in your building span and roof pitch to get rafter length, rise, run, birdsmouth dimensions, cut angles, lumber size recommendation, and a full material count. Works for gable and shed roofs.
Symmetrical roof with two equal sloping sides
Enter span and pitch to calculate
Common roof pitches, their angle in degrees, rafter length factor, and typical applications.
Choose gable (two sloped sides meeting at a ridge) or shed (single slope). For gable roofs, the calculator automatically halves the span to find the run. For shed roofs, the span you enter is the full run.
Type in the building span in feet and inches. Then select the roof pitch from the dropdown - all common pitches from 1/12 to 16/12 are listed with their degree equivalent. The calculator instantly computes run, rise, and rafter length.
Enter the eave overhang in inches (12 inches is a common default). Pick rafter spacing: 16 inches on center is standard for most residential construction, 24 inches for lighter loads. The results panel updates with total rafter length including overhang and the number of rafters needed.
The results show plumb cut and seat cut angles for your birdsmouth, a suggested lumber size based on the run and spacing, and the total linear feet of rafter material. Export the full report or share the summary.
Type the span and pitch and the rafter length appears immediately. No need to look up multiplier tables or do Pythagorean math by hand. The overhang is added automatically.
Get the seat cut depth and plumb cut height for your birdsmouth based on the pitch angle and wall plate width. Saves layout time on the job site.
A cross-section diagram updates in real time as you change inputs. See the rafter, walls, ridge, and overhang proportionally. Helpful for visualizing the finished roof before cutting a single board.
The calculator suggests a nominal lumber size (2x6, 2x8, etc.) based on the rafter run and your selected spacing. A starting point for checking against local code span tables.
Get the total number of rafters for both sides of a gable roof and the total linear feet of material. Walk into the lumber yard with a number, not a guess.
Download a text file with every input, measurement, cut angle, and material count. Hand it to your framing crew or keep it in your permit file.
A rafter is a sloped structural member that runs from the ridge of the roof down to the eave. Together with the ridge board at the top and the wall plates at the bottom, rafters form the skeleton of a stick-framed roof. Each rafter carries the weight of the sheathing, roofing material, snow loads, and wind loads down to the walls and ultimately to the foundation.
In a gable roof, rafters come in pairs that lean against each other at the ridge. Ceiling joists or collar ties connect the pairs to prevent the walls from spreading outward under load. In a shed roof, rafters run as single members from a tall wall (or ledger board) down to a lower wall. The geometry is simpler, but the structural demands are similar.
Every rafter calculation boils down to a right triangle. The horizontal leg is the run - half the building span for a gable, full span for a shed, minus half the ridge board thickness. The vertical leg is the rise, determined by multiplying the run by the pitch ratio (rise per 12 inches). The rafter length is the hypotenuse.
Carpenters have used a shortcut for generations: the unit length factor. For any pitch, you calculate √(1 + (pitch/12)²) once and then multiply it by the run in feet to get the rafter length in feet. At 6/12 pitch, the factor is 1.1180 - a 14-foot run gives a 15.65-foot rafter. Our calculator displays this factor so you can use it for quick estimates on related parts of the roof.
The overhang adds length at the bottom of the rafter, past the wall. Because the rafter slopes, the overhang measured on the slope is longer than the horizontal overhang you specify. A 12-inch horizontal overhang at 6/12 pitch becomes 13.4 inches on the board. Always account for this when ordering lumber.
The birdsmouth is arguably the most critical cut on a rafter. It is the notch that locks the rafter onto the wall plate. Two cuts define it: the seat cut (horizontal, parallel to the ground) and the plumb cut (vertical, perpendicular to the ground). The depth of the seat cut is typically equal to the width of the wall plate - 3.5 inches for a 2×4 wall, 5.5 inches for a 2×6 wall.
Building codes generally require that the birdsmouth does not cut more than one-third of the rafter depth. On a 2×6 rafter (5.5 inches deep), the maximum seat cut depth is about 1.83 inches. For standard 2×4 walls, a 3.5-inch seat cut works on 2×8 and larger rafters. If your rafter is too shallow for the required birdsmouth, you either need to upsize the rafter or use a different connection method like a metal connector.
The plumb cut angle on the birdsmouth matches the pitch angle. At 6/12, the plumb cut is 26.6 degrees from vertical. The ridge-end plumb cut uses the same angle. Mark these cuts with a framing square or speed square set to the pitch.
Pitch affects drainage, snow shedding, wind resistance, usable attic space, and aesthetics. Low pitches (2/12 to 4/12) are economical on material and labor but require waterproof underlayment because water moves slowly. Medium pitches (5/12 to 8/12) are the residential sweet spot - good drainage, moderate material use, and enough attic space for storage or HVAC equipment. Steep pitches (9/12 and above) shed snow aggressively and create dramatic interiors but cost more in material and labor, and catch more wind.
Local climate often dictates the minimum. Snowy regions favor steeper pitches to prevent dangerous snow buildup. Arid climates can get away with nearly flat roofs. Wind-prone coastal areas sometimes specify lower pitches to reduce uplift forces. Always check your local building code for minimum and maximum pitch requirements.
Once the calculator gives you the rafter length, cut angles, and material count, the next step is layout and cutting. Use a framing square or speed square to mark the plumb cut at the ridge end, then measure along the top edge of the rafter to mark the birdsmouth location (run distance from the ridge cut). Cut the birdsmouth and the tail, and you have a pattern rafter.
Test-fit the pattern rafter on the building before cutting the rest. Set it in place with the birdsmouth on the wall plate and the ridge end against a temporary brace or the ridge board. Check that the overhang looks right and the ridge height matches your plan. If everything lines up, use the pattern to mark and cut all remaining rafters. Label each cut clearly - a single mislabeled angle can waste an entire board.
For material ordering, round up to the next standard lumber length. If your total rafter length is 13 feet 8 inches, order 14-foot or 16-foot boards. Buying boards that are slightly long is far cheaper than splicing short pieces together. Factor in 5 to 10 percent waste for knots, splits, and cutting errors.
Answers to the most common questions about rafter calculations and roof framing.
This calculator provides estimates for planning and educational purposes. Actual rafter sizing must comply with local building codes, which account for lumber species, grade, snow loads, wind loads, and live loads. Always consult a structural engineer or your local building department for permit-level calculations.